Habana 3/23 -- There is new word from the Cuban government about the confused situation following the death of iconic leader Fidel Castro. Allejandro Fernandez, a lower level official at the ministry of the interior has directly phoned a number of local journalists with the following statement: "Alarmed by the threatening statements made by representatives of the United States and its allies, the government of Cuba has taken immediate steps to ensure a smooth transition. All reservists are being asked to report for duty, and the nation's defense forces have been placed on high alert, The revolutionary guard will repel any attempt by outsiders to impose their will upon the free people of Cuba."
But the situation remains puzzling. The voice of the Cuban government, so unified and foreceful in the waning hours of Fidel Castro's illness, now appears to be stammering. Why hasn't the latest statement been broadcast on national radio and television? Why is there no single spokesperson responsible for direct contact with the public? And why has no one yet explained the delay in president-designate Raúl Castro's address to the Cuban people?
Fernandez is known to be a stalwart supporter of the Castro regime. Has he replaced the government's previous official spokesman? Or is a struggle taking place within the leadership, a struggle that is reaching down to mid-levels of bureaucrats and functionaries? And most importantly, is the army still unified behind its long-time chief of staff?
The radio continues to offer patriotic music and Cuban folk songs, but there is less and less activity in the streets. No public transportation is running, and shops are closing early, either for lack of customers or in anticipation of an official curfew.
A few minutes ago, I made my way on foot to the nearby offices of the ministry of labor. The entrance was heavily guarded and no one seemed to be coming or going from the building. But at the nearest corner, where day laborers often gather in hopes of picking up an odd job, a group of 40-50 men had assembled. "We are here to support the president," one of the men told me. "Normally, we carry shovels and picks, but if we must, we will shoulder rifles."
I also made my way to the coffee shop on Avenida Esperanza, which had reopened following the morning's confrontation with security forces. A few students sat in the half-light sipping espresso. They were reluctant to talk with me at first, but seemed to relax when I showed my Spanish passport.
"There are many people who do not want to see Muso (another nickname for Raúl Castro) as president," one of them said. "There are many people meeting today in houses and offices around the island to plot a new course for Cuba, a course that will bring us into the 21st century. It is time; we have waited long enough."
When I asked if there were demonstrations planned, they shrugged noncommittally. Then one of them added with a strange grin, "Students always stay up late at night."
havana hombre
Friday, March 23, 2007
rumors abound
Habana 3/23 -- As a former professor of mine at Barcelona Technical College once remarked, "Secrecy begets ignorance." It is difficult, if not impossible, to tell what is happening in Havana at this critical point in Cuba's history. The announced speech by incoming President Raúl Castro has been, in the words of the official spokesperson, "delayed." What this means is anyone's guess. And guesswork undermines understanding.
Calls to official agencies lead nowhere. My contacts in the media are equally mystified. In the absence of reliable information, the rumormongers and conspiracy theorists have been given free rein.
The compadre on the corner who shines shoes and takes on other errands and chores for a greenback has become the most reliable, as well as colorful, observer of the increasingly tense situation in Cuba's capital. "We are only hours from an invasion," he says calmly. "The American navy has already landed Marines at Guantanamo, and soon the frigates will sail into Bahia de la Habana. Already los Americanos have named a puppet president, who at this moment is ready to board a plane in Miami. We'll soon be Yanqui slaves again."
His name is Ernesto. He delivers his vision of the future without rancor or malice. He has always been poor. He expects to remain poor. All he asks of life is an occasional tip, a daily shot of rum and a glass of cerveza.
A more chilling account comes from my Spanish compatriot, Miguel Onate, an engineer who represents a major international construction consortium working on new port facilities in Santiago. In a phone call, Miguel relates that many roads in the eastern part of the island have been blocked by the Cuban military. His company is unable to get shipments to the work site and military convoys have been seen moving in the area.
Miguel has his own rumors to report. Juan Carlos Robinson Agramonte, the party official sentenced to 12 years in prison last year for influence peddling, has allegedly been released. Robinson, a shining political star before his unexpected dismissal from the politburo, still has many admirers among Cuba's intelligentsia and academic circles.
But who knows? It is all rumor. And rumor, as we all know, is worth exactly what we've paid for it. The only thing I can say for sure is that no bus has run on the street below my window for the past two hours.
havana hombre
Calls to official agencies lead nowhere. My contacts in the media are equally mystified. In the absence of reliable information, the rumormongers and conspiracy theorists have been given free rein.
The compadre on the corner who shines shoes and takes on other errands and chores for a greenback has become the most reliable, as well as colorful, observer of the increasingly tense situation in Cuba's capital. "We are only hours from an invasion," he says calmly. "The American navy has already landed Marines at Guantanamo, and soon the frigates will sail into Bahia de la Habana. Already los Americanos have named a puppet president, who at this moment is ready to board a plane in Miami. We'll soon be Yanqui slaves again."
His name is Ernesto. He delivers his vision of the future without rancor or malice. He has always been poor. He expects to remain poor. All he asks of life is an occasional tip, a daily shot of rum and a glass of cerveza.
A more chilling account comes from my Spanish compatriot, Miguel Onate, an engineer who represents a major international construction consortium working on new port facilities in Santiago. In a phone call, Miguel relates that many roads in the eastern part of the island have been blocked by the Cuban military. His company is unable to get shipments to the work site and military convoys have been seen moving in the area.
Miguel has his own rumors to report. Juan Carlos Robinson Agramonte, the party official sentenced to 12 years in prison last year for influence peddling, has allegedly been released. Robinson, a shining political star before his unexpected dismissal from the politburo, still has many admirers among Cuba's intelligentsia and academic circles.
But who knows? It is all rumor. And rumor, as we all know, is worth exactly what we've paid for it. The only thing I can say for sure is that no bus has run on the street below my window for the past two hours.
havana hombre
breathless
Habana 3/23 -- I've stumbled back into my office...breathless, having run a gauntlet of check points and jostling through the mounting crowds in the street. The police have set up several roadblocks in the area around the presidential palace and jeeps carrying armed soldiers have begun patrolling the downtown area.
Just after lunch, I found a flier stuck in my mail slot at work. The Federation for a Democratic Cuba was announcing a public meeting. "A window has been opened," the flier read. "Let the light shine on freedom in Cuba." I rushed to the designated reading room/coffee house on Avenida Esperanza, normally used for late night poetry readings and student gatherings. But when I arrived, the entrance to the establishment was blocked by uniformed guards. "The meeting has been cancelled," an anonymous spokesperson in street clothes informed me and a few others who had shown up. "Go back to your offices and homes," he growled. I rushed back here, breathless. Suddenly, a sense of unease has blown over the city.
I've called contacts in the media and the labor unions. No one is answering.
I've turned on the radio to await President Raúl Castro's first address to his constituents.
havana hombre
Just after lunch, I found a flier stuck in my mail slot at work. The Federation for a Democratic Cuba was announcing a public meeting. "A window has been opened," the flier read. "Let the light shine on freedom in Cuba." I rushed to the designated reading room/coffee house on Avenida Esperanza, normally used for late night poetry readings and student gatherings. But when I arrived, the entrance to the establishment was blocked by uniformed guards. "The meeting has been cancelled," an anonymous spokesperson in street clothes informed me and a few others who had shown up. "Go back to your offices and homes," he growled. I rushed back here, breathless. Suddenly, a sense of unease has blown over the city.
I've called contacts in the media and the labor unions. No one is answering.
I've turned on the radio to await President Raúl Castro's first address to his constituents.
havana hombre
Raúl: Who is the new President?
Habana 3/23 -- "Who is this new president?" a friend and fellow Spaniard asked over a quick lunch at Tia Sofias. "I've been hearing about him for decades, but I don't feel like I know who he is. There are so many rumors about him. Is he a fool or a demon or a hero or a genius? I guess we'll find out."
It is true that the people of Cuba know less about their incoming leader than they did about their founder and lionized leader since 1959. But Raúl Castro is no stranger to them. As a local journalist once quipped, "Fidel is the one who reads us bedtime stories; Raúl is the one who makes us sleep lightly."
Born the fourth of seven children and the youngest of three brothers, Raúl grew up meeker and less focused than Fidel. His classmates tagged him "la pulguita," the little flea. His radically different appearance from his siblings has fed rumors for decades that he and Fidel had different fathers. But in the incipiency of the revolution, Raúl found his fervor and his calling. It was he who nurtured a friendship with the legendary Che Guevara; it was he who most fervently championed the cause of communist revolution in Latin America.
When Fidel Castro rose to power, he placed his younger brother, Raúl, in charge of the military, a post he has held faithfully for almost half a century. Raúl Castro has proven to be an able administrator, a loyal champion of the regime, and a strict guardian of the tenets of the revolution. The brothers seem to have achieved a kind of "good cop, bad cop" routine, and Raúl has been known to kiddingly refer to himself as "Raúl the Terrible." He is alleged to have personally executed a top general, Arnaldo Ochoa, for treason in 1989.
Whether Raúl Castro's reputation for brutality has been softened with age (he is now 78) should soon become apparent. In the corridors of power in Havana today, this is a topic of much whispered conversation. Cuba knows this man, but does it know him well enough?
havana hombre
first reactions
Habana 3/23 -- A mix of excitement and anxiety seems to be gripping the people of Havana as first reactions to the death of President Fidel Castro segue into speculation about the future. Few people that I've spoken with doubt that the transition of power to the "first brother," Raúl will proceed quickly and efficiently. However, there are obvious concerns about outside agitation or even intervention, as well as keen interest in what the power shift will mean for future policy directives.
A quick telefonazo to the ministry of the interior unveils the government's official stance. "This is both a time of great grief and an historic crossroads for the republic," the assistant who took my call said. "We have no further statements at this time. President-designate Raúl Castro will address the republic at 2:00 pm."
A second call to a friend and colleague who heads the Cuban longshoreman's union was more informative. The central revolutionary committee has been called into emergency session and the military has cancelled all leave, he said. He himself had been summoned to a meeting with key labor leaders. "Something tells me we're in for some intense maneuvering," he noted. "You know, not everyone likes the dauphin-designate." For obvious reasons, I will keep his name confidential.
Finally, a call to Jorge's rural home in Vuelta Abajo. His septuagenarian father took the call, a man who served proudly, if briefly, with Castro's revolutionary guard. No, Jorge hadn't arrived yet. He was presumably still on the road after staying over in the capital with friends. (And presumably taking it easy because of last night's sangria -- which I didn't bother to share with the elder Milian.)
"It is now over for my generation," Jorge's father said somberly. "All our passion and sweat and toil has been poured into this glorious era for Cuba. What comes now is not for us, but for the saints," he lamented.
havana hombre
A quick telefonazo to the ministry of the interior unveils the government's official stance. "This is both a time of great grief and an historic crossroads for the republic," the assistant who took my call said. "We have no further statements at this time. President-designate Raúl Castro will address the republic at 2:00 pm."
A second call to a friend and colleague who heads the Cuban longshoreman's union was more informative. The central revolutionary committee has been called into emergency session and the military has cancelled all leave, he said. He himself had been summoned to a meeting with key labor leaders. "Something tells me we're in for some intense maneuvering," he noted. "You know, not everyone likes the dauphin-designate." For obvious reasons, I will keep his name confidential.
Finally, a call to Jorge's rural home in Vuelta Abajo. His septuagenarian father took the call, a man who served proudly, if briefly, with Castro's revolutionary guard. No, Jorge hadn't arrived yet. He was presumably still on the road after staying over in the capital with friends. (And presumably taking it easy because of last night's sangria -- which I didn't bother to share with the elder Milian.)
"It is now over for my generation," Jorge's father said somberly. "All our passion and sweat and toil has been poured into this glorious era for Cuba. What comes now is not for us, but for the saints," he lamented.
havana hombre
el zumbido
Habana 3/23 -- The city has awakened from a deep sleep, following the announcement of Fidel Castro's death early this morning, which was echoed by the sonorous peeling of church bells throughout the city. The level of activity has heightened; small groups congregate on street corners to share their grief and ponder what is to come.
After downing a half gallon of coffee to neutralize last night's gallon of sangria, I hurried to my office. From the window here, I see an unusual amount of traffic, including a great many black Volvo and Mercedes limousines that presumably are ferrying government officials to urgent conferences. I've pulled out my black book of contact names. Urgency seems to be replacing lethargy.
The buzz of history is palpable.
havana hombre
After downing a half gallon of coffee to neutralize last night's gallon of sangria, I hurried to my office. From the window here, I see an unusual amount of traffic, including a great many black Volvo and Mercedes limousines that presumably are ferrying government officials to urgent conferences. I've pulled out my black book of contact names. Urgency seems to be replacing lethargy.
The buzz of history is palpable.
havana hombre
Thursday, March 22, 2007
turning a leaf
Habana 3/22 -- It has been an evening for contemplation here in Havana, as the island confronts what seems to be growing concern over the health of President Fidel Castro, as well as Cuba’s political future. The streets are unusually quiet, although laughter and music still emanate quietly from clubs and restaurants in the old city, reflecting the new-found popularity of these balmy shores among winter-weary northern Europeans.
For now the music plays on. But for how long?
I was reminded how pervasive the influence of Fidel Castro’s reign has been over dinner. (Lamb stew with a sofrito base and maduros, if you’re really interested.) My dinner companion was Jorge Milian, whose family has been growing quality tobacco for generations in Vuelta Abajo. Jorge is an intelligent young man, not enthusiastically political, but a loyal socialist.
We are not special, Jorge told me. We are a simple people, but Castro has made it possible for us to be part of a special country. I have inherited the land from my father and I do what we have always done here -- grow tobacco. All I want to do is grow good tobacco the traditional way, creating the best quality possible, just like my father did, and his father and his father before him, Jorge said.
The Milian story is part of the remarkable resurgence of the Cuban economy after the end of Soviet financial assistance nearly 15 years ago. Cuba weathered a tough economic storm and emerged resilient. Today, the gross domestic product is growing by 6-7 percent. Exports of sugar, nickel and cigars are robust. Cuba is rapidly reclaiming its role as the premier manufacturer of quality cigars, with about 170 million quality smokes exported last year.
The island’s primary export market, surprisingly, is neither in Latin America nor its former communist partners. The number one trade partner is the Netherlands, where the Dutch savor Punch panatelas at 30 Euros a smoke, with no embargo to prevent them from lighting up.
Jorge met recently with an American trade delegation, led by former Kentucky congressman Scotty Baesler, who has stated that increased trade could do wonders for farm communities in the Southeast as well as Cuba itself.
As Jorge sees it, the Castro regime has made tremendous strides the past ten years in modernizing the Cuban economy. Without direct cooperation with tobacco industry consultants in the U.S. and Europe, embargoes and travel restrictions notwithstanding, the Cuban industry would never have survived. That cooperation resulted, among other things, in the development of a mold resistant strain of broadleaf tobacco that retains the legendary sweet, mellow flavor of a classic Cuban. Those seeds, Cuba2000, have kept Jorge and his family in business.
I asked Jorge if he thought Cuba was ready for a change in leadership. “We have relied on Fidel Castro for so much,” he said. “Is there anyone who can take his place? I don’t know. Already my mother is crying,” he added.
havana hombre
For now the music plays on. But for how long?
I was reminded how pervasive the influence of Fidel Castro’s reign has been over dinner. (Lamb stew with a sofrito base and maduros, if you’re really interested.) My dinner companion was Jorge Milian, whose family has been growing quality tobacco for generations in Vuelta Abajo. Jorge is an intelligent young man, not enthusiastically political, but a loyal socialist.
We are not special, Jorge told me. We are a simple people, but Castro has made it possible for us to be part of a special country. I have inherited the land from my father and I do what we have always done here -- grow tobacco. All I want to do is grow good tobacco the traditional way, creating the best quality possible, just like my father did, and his father and his father before him, Jorge said.
The Milian story is part of the remarkable resurgence of the Cuban economy after the end of Soviet financial assistance nearly 15 years ago. Cuba weathered a tough economic storm and emerged resilient. Today, the gross domestic product is growing by 6-7 percent. Exports of sugar, nickel and cigars are robust. Cuba is rapidly reclaiming its role as the premier manufacturer of quality cigars, with about 170 million quality smokes exported last year.
The island’s primary export market, surprisingly, is neither in Latin America nor its former communist partners. The number one trade partner is the Netherlands, where the Dutch savor Punch panatelas at 30 Euros a smoke, with no embargo to prevent them from lighting up.
Jorge met recently with an American trade delegation, led by former Kentucky congressman Scotty Baesler, who has stated that increased trade could do wonders for farm communities in the Southeast as well as Cuba itself.
As Jorge sees it, the Castro regime has made tremendous strides the past ten years in modernizing the Cuban economy. Without direct cooperation with tobacco industry consultants in the U.S. and Europe, embargoes and travel restrictions notwithstanding, the Cuban industry would never have survived. That cooperation resulted, among other things, in the development of a mold resistant strain of broadleaf tobacco that retains the legendary sweet, mellow flavor of a classic Cuban. Those seeds, Cuba2000, have kept Jorge and his family in business.
I asked Jorge if he thought Cuba was ready for a change in leadership. “We have relied on Fidel Castro for so much,” he said. “Is there anyone who can take his place? I don’t know. Already my mother is crying,” he added.
havana hombre
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